Four years ago, a funny thing started to happen. Greenpoint, a neighborhood once ignored by friends and refused by cab drivers, began to buzz. First came a pizza spot, then a coffee shop, then a solidly decent restaurant. Next: one bakery, two bakeries, a flower shop, a place to buy ceramics. Today, it’s become a full-blown destination neighborhood, filled with everything you’ll find in SoHo, Nolita, or the Lower East Side. And, as of a few months ago, it’s got something Manhattan doesn’t: Oxomoco.
Oxomoco is the brainchild of chef Justin Bazdarich, who previously dreamed up the delicious Speedy Romeo wood-fired pizza chain (one of which you’ll find just around the corner from SIXTY LES). For Oxomoco, Bazdarich looked to Mexico for the food and, arguably, to Los Angeles for the vibe. The look here is not so recognizably Brooklyn as it is Venice Beach. Set back from the sidewalk, Oxomoco even has a large, street-facing patio–something New York City real estate does not often afford.
But let’s talk food. Bazdarich, along with chef de cuisine Matt Conroy, have created what they call a “regionally agnostic” menu that takes its cues from everywhere from Oaxaca to the Yucatan Peninsula. What that translates into are dishes like grilled branzino with mole amarillo and hoja santa, charred carrot tamal with green garlic, and a whole host of insanely good tacos–eight different kinds, if you want to get specific.
Weather permitting, seats out front are competitive and in small supply. But the inside of Oxomoco has a kind of verdant California garage appeal that’s perfect for date nights or brunch, which the restaurant serves every day. (Late risers of the freelance set, rejoice!) Daytime brings with it plenty of tantalizing options. Bowls, specifically. And no, not açaí bowls. Oxomoco stays true to its (freshly planted) roots, with heartier fare like chicken al pastor and albacore tuna achiote.
Day or night, Oxomoco serves up food that’s capable of drawing the staunchest Manhattanite. The guacamole alone is worth a trip over the bridge.
128 Greenpoint Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222