You feel it immediately when you walk in. Day or night, rain or shine, ALL TIME, a breezy all-day cafe on Hillhurst Avenue in Los Feliz, buzzes with a rare kind of energy. Regulars chat with servers behind the counter. Friends run into one another on the outdoor patio. The place hums with that indescribable something. ALL TIME seems deeply of a time and of a place, in a way that will, one can imagine, have many looking back decades from now, saying wistfully to themselves, “Remember when…”
All of this is to say, ALL TIME is special. Beyond the more esoteric qualities expressed above, it is very much grounded in great food and drink. It’s a neighborhood spot with destination-worthy fare, a place where you can come for breakfast and score strong coffee and some eggy things, toasted things, or pastry things, or you can swing by for dinner to drink some excellent wine and choose from an ever-changing menu, scrawled on butcher paper with no small amount of enthusiasm (Good Ass Salad! Whole Dang Fish!). ALL TIME has whatever you want, whenever you want it.
This charming addition to the Eastside comes courtesy of chef Tyler Wells, formerly of Handsome Coffee, and sommelier Ashley Ragovin, who spent the better part of a decade running the hospitality and wine programs for some of L.A.’s best restaurants (Animal, Trois Mec, the list goes on). Together, this culinary “It” couple has created an immediately cherished neighborhood staple that hits the sweet spot. It is elegant, intelligent, delicious, and absolutely without pretense—like you’re having a casual bite at a friend’s house, only your friend happens to cook like the devil and has the very best taste in wine. Sign us up.
Tyler Wells and Ashley Ragovin were kind enough to open early and show us around ALL TIME. Below, the two talk the elements of hospitality, mom-and-pop inspirations, and a ribeye for two (but really for one).
Place of residence:
Los Angeles, CA.
Place of origin:
TW: West Virginia.
AR: San Diego.
Morning person or night owl:
TW: Morning person.
AR: Night owl… though I love the quiet early mornings when I can make it happen!
How do you take your coffee?
AR: Black. Sometimes with cream in the afternoon…
Beverage of choice post-5 p.m.:
AR: Probably still drinking coffee.
Three things every good neighborhood should have:
TW: Coffee bar, a park, and a good restaurant.
AR: A community, a good local market and coffee spot, some outdoor space.
Your definition of hospitality:
TW: Seamless anticipation of anything someone could hope for.
AR: Genuinely caring for people—intuiting their needs from a human place, not a transactional one.
A person in your life or place you’ve been that inspires you to be a better host:
TW: I’m inspired by the humble little mom-and-pop spots when we travel, especially in France and Italy.
AR: Tyler is the most gracious host I know.
What you want people to feel when they walk into ALL TIME?
AR: At ease and truly cared for.
Perfect order at ALL TIME for breakfast, lunch, and dinner:
TW: Cappuccino and a black coffee and cheesy eggs on toast; lunch is a salad; dinner is the ribeye for two for one person and a glass of wine at the window bar.
AR: breakfast is black coffee with more black coffee and some adventure bread; lunch is a wild salmon bowl; dinner is the lamb ragu with good wine and quiet seat… or whatever family meal the chefs are cooking up!
Best seat in the house at ALL TIME:
TW: Window bar.
AR: Window bar, for sure.
Favorite street in Los Angeles:
TW: The street we live on. I love our neighbors.
AR: A hiking trail in Griffith Park somewhere.
Favorite time of day in Los Angeles:
TW: Early morning when the city isn’t awake yet and starts coming to life.
AR: Afternoons turning into evenings when the restaurant is quiet and the dinner service is about to begin.
Least favorite time of day in Los Angeles:
TW: Dusk in the wintertime.
AR: 4 p.m. on any freeway.
Most exciting neighborhood in L.A. right now:
TW: Glassell Park.
AR: Definitely the collection of neighborhoods on the Eastside. We’re excited about our neck of the woods!
Stereotype about Los Angeles that isn’t true:
TW: That it’s fake. You can certainly have a real life and make real connections with people.
AR: That it lacks substance.
Stereotype about Los Angeles that is true:
TW: Everyone is an actor.
What fuels you in life?
TW: Always doing better.
AR: Doing good work, travel, learning, opening up and connecting with people, being a good partner.
Best piece of advice you’ve ever received:
TW: Focus on what you’re great at and outsource the rest.
AR: You can’t be all things to all people if you want to grow a meaningful community.